20 avril 2007
Manresa-Passard (5): the tao of Carrot
This chapter of the Manresa-Passard series will follow the path of carrots (and spinach) to two different dishes. So let us go back to Love Apple Farm and the woody Santa Cruz hills, where, early in the morning, David is picking rainbow carrots with the moral support of a quiet and attentive companion.
Young spinach is also gathered.
I suppose it's useless to comment on those lovely carrots' name.
Round, pale-colored heirloom carrots soon join their purple friends.
This morning's crop, including a large vat of fresh spinach, is sent to Manresa's kitchen. Vegetable cooking, says David, is so much maintenance! So much sorting, cleaning, washing, trimming, peeling, etc. There's far more work in a kitchen like Manresa's, devoted to vegetables as it is, than there is in a more carnivorous kitchen that, on the other hand, does not rely so much on home-grown products. A much overlooked fact.
I have a chance to fully realize that as I decide to wash, sort and trim the spinach. It is, indeed, the best way I have found to take pictures in the kitchen without being too much in the way. With both hands in cold water, I pick, tail and drain, and when I see something interesting, I quickly wipe my hands on my apron and click away.
For instance, I can take this portrait of Julie as she checks the vin jaune for the lobster broth.
And I can watch the preparation of all the carrots: this morning's crop for the dessert and other carrots for the purée.
The cleaned roots will be slowly boiled with rosemary sprigs under a protective layer of paper.
Julie blends and sieves the carrots.
Here is Alain Passard's amuse: spinach (my spinach!) with hazelnut oil, toasted sesame seeds, puréed carrots with orange juice.
And his dessert: carrots in araguani chocolate sauce.